Lookin through my glass: Chandni Chowk

Razia Sultan's Grave. Bulbuli Khana . Near Turkman Gate, Old Delhi

Died Oct 13, 1240

"grave said to be of Sultana Razia" .. Several versions of her death are in circulation and even more claims about location of her grave. Hence the above reference in the ASI plaque.

Modern day neighbour of Sultana Razia.

Have to weave through the galis of Bulbuli kana to reach the heritage spot. Sunday , with shutters down would be preferable for a visit.

And here amidst the chaos Mirza Ghalib found the perfect geometry of his poetry.

Died February 15 1869

The haveli where he spent his final days was until recently being used as an air cooler manufacturing facility. The Government managed to reclaim half of it. The other half is still being used as an STD call booth. Ghalib still couldnt reclaim his roof. When it rains, its insides are filled with rain water rather than with Ghalib's verses.

Old Delhi has to be viewed as a single architectural entity. It spreads like Delhi's own river, Yamuna - from myth, through history to the present. The architectural time space continuum is not punctuated by the galis, but loosely strewn together by it.

For a moment, you could be the little boy of Abbas Kiarastomi's 'Where is My Friend's House?' For the dreamy eyed, doors of Delhi's galis come in all shapes, sizes and motifs.

And the stairs... Probably as part of maximum utilisation of space, steep steps remain a feature of Old Delhi's architecture.

Unlike the architectural structures that make up Old Delhi, its electric transmission system seems to have predated the Moghul dynasty.

Beneath the dust of multiple centuries, those who inherited the streets which once saw valour, love, blood shed and opulence carry on with their daily chores...